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给大家翻译原版“大3”的制作方法

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发表于 2015-10-15 20:59:37 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 ☆天与地☆ 于 2015-10-15 23:02 编辑

下面这段是标准英文版“大3”制作方法及注意事项

原文章地址:https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374080-The-Big-3-Wiring-Upgrade

The Big 3 Wiring Upgrade
One aspect that is often overlooked when installing a high power mobile audio system is the current capacity of the factory wiring. The wiring put in place by automakers is just sufficient enough to support the current demands of the factory accessories and is rarely able to support much more than that. A fairly simple and inexpensive way to address this is to replace or augment the factory wiring with new, larger gauge wire. This will help greatly to support the extra current draw that a mobile audio system will demand. The “Big 3” name is because we will be upgrading three key wires in the vehicle. Here are the wires you need to upgrade:

  • Ground wire from battery to frame:
    Use at least a 4 4AWG wire and place it directly under the factory ground strap that runs from the negative battery post to the frame of the vehicle. Grind away any extra paint on the frame to bare metal to allow the new, larger ring terminal to make full contact with the frame.
  • Ground wire from engine to frame:
    This will be almost the same as the “battery-to-frame” upgrade. Use at least a 4 AWG wire and place it directly under the ground strap that runs from the engine block to the frame. Grind away any extra paint on the frame down to bare metal to allow the new, larger ring terminal to make full contact with the frame. In some vehicles there may be a ground strap that runs from the alternator casing to the frame. It would be a good idea to upgrade this also if your vehicle has this.
  • Power wire from alternator to battery: Use at least a 4 AWG wire and place it under the factory ring terminal on the power stud that is on the side of the factory alternator. Run this wire to the positive battery post and be cautious not to route it where it will contact hot engine components or moving parts such as auxiliary belts. Fusing this wire near the alternator is a good idea as well for added protection in case it gets damaged. This will blow the fuse and still allow the factory system to continue to operate.
The “Big 3” upgrade can not only improve the performance of your audio system, it can also enhance the performance of the entire electrical system for your vehicle (which can lead to improved fuel economy or additional horsepower). In other words, upgrading the “Big 3” is almost always a good idea.
Note: For systems that will exceed 1500 watts (of actual power) it would be best to use larger wire for the upgrade such as 2 AWG or ? (1/?) AWG. This much power may also require an upgraded alternator.
A quick note about wires:There are many companies offering wire that is a combination of copper and aluminum. Aluminum is not as conductive as copper. Aluminum is also less expensive than copper, so when comparing pricing and wire size it can be a bit misleading. You should only consider using true copper wiring, but if you want to consider the copper/aluminum wire, it is best to look at a wire size that is 2 AWG larger (smaller number) to ensure safety and proper conductivity.

Below is a chart that shows various different wire gauges using the AWG system (American Wire Gauge) as well as the cross sectional surface area. Please note that the area values listed are for solid copper wire. Of course, in mobile audio applications we use multi-stranded wire and solid copper wire is rarely if ever used. The cross sectional area of stranded wire can vary with the number of strands, so creating a valid chart for stranded wire would be either confusing or inaccurate. If you use the numbers listed below as a general guideline, you should be fine.

AWG
Square mm
Square Inches
? (1/?)
53.5
8.29
1
42.4
6.57
2
33.6
5.21
4
21.2
3.26
6
13.3
2.06
8
8.37
1.3
10
5.26
0.82
12
3.31
0.51


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 楼主| 发表于 2015-10-15 22:57:02 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 ☆天与地☆ 于 2015-10-16 09:31 编辑

   当我们在安装一套大功率汽车音响系统的时候经常会忽略原车电源线的容量问题。汽车制造商所使用的电源线仅仅是满足原车的一些系统要求,很少会考虑额外的供电。一个非常简单而且不贵的方法就是用更粗更大的新线来代替或者加强原厂的电源线。这将大大的提供额外的电流来满足汽车音响系统。之所以起“大3”这个名字是因为我们要在车辆上升级三条重要的电源线。下面这3条电源线是你要升级的:
    1、电源线从电瓶负极到车身。
  用4号以上的电源线直接从原车电瓶负极引到车上框架。要打磨光车上的多余的油漆使得新的电线的线鼻子能充分的与车身接触。
   2、电源线从车身到发动机
这根线要用和电瓶负极到车上差不多大小的线来升级。用4号以上的电源线从发动机的金属块的地方到车身。要打磨光车上的多余的油漆使得新的电线的线鼻子能充分的与车身接触。一些车上的从发动机到车身的线工作时间长了,我们把这个线换了也许是个好主意。
     3、电源线从交流发电机到电瓶
用4 号上的电源线从发电机正极到电瓶正极,电源线一定不要碰到发电机热的部分或者摇晃的部位。
最好在靠近发电机的部位加一个保险以防万一电源线损坏短路。即使保险丝断了,原车电力系统可以照样工作。

      升级“大3”不单单可以提高音响系统性能,同时也可以提高你车辆的所有用电设备的性能(它可以节约你的油耗或者节约动力)。换句话说,升级“大3”绝对是一个好主意。


    注意:当你的音响系统实际功率超过1500W的时候,最好用2号或者1号电源线来升级。这么大的功率需求最好也要升级发电机。

一些电源线的注意事项:
很多公司提供率铜铝电源线供你选择。铝的传导性是没有铜好的,同时铝的价格也比铜便宜。所以当我们比较两种电源线的价格和粗细那就是误入歧途。你应当考虑使用铜电源线。但是假如你考虑使用铜铝电源线,你最起码使用2号线来确保安全和电流传输。


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 楼主| 发表于 2015-10-15 22:59:23 | 显示全部楼层
最下面的表格是线径对照表,美国标准。还有就是要求需要使用多股铜线。而不是单根粗线

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发表于 2015-10-15 23:18:53 来自手机 | 显示全部楼层
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发表于 2015-10-15 23:18:55 来自手机 | 显示全部楼层
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 楼主| 发表于 2015-10-15 23:35:44 | 显示全部楼层
joce 发表于 2015-10-15 23:18
顶下天地版主

谢谢

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发表于 2015-10-16 08:19:35 | 显示全部楼层
不错,顶顶地版

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发表于 2015-10-16 08:23:48 | 显示全部楼层
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发表于 2015-10-16 11:43:01 | 显示全部楼层
其实大三的做法是有一定依据的。。原车电路只考虑汽车正常使用需要的电流以及保有一定的盈余。。原车电源线的线径不会很粗的。。然而我们改装汽车音响,很多时候都需要增加大功率的功放,,充分利用发电机的能效使得供电更充足。。
大三的目的,说白了,就是增加正负极通路的线径,从而保证电流更顺利的从发电机供给到电瓶(正极),以及负极回流到车体和发电机机壳(负极)。。合理的施工,加强电流的通过性,,能为汽车提供更多的电流,,对音响改装以及汽车动力,都会是一个很好的帮助。。
谢谢天与地版主的辛勤劳动。。这是难得的一篇关于“大三”的原文,,建议配一幅美图,,会使得帖子更优秀。。
喜欢音乐,追求音质,广交烧友,分享经验。快乐并痛苦着追求自己心中的好声音。。anson_lgx。。

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发表于 2015-10-16 11:46:50 来自手机 | 显示全部楼层
保险靠近电池更安全
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